Cheeses have slowly become essential elements of gourmet practices in modern Pan-Indian cuisine. Going back to the Middle Ages, the Portuguese brought the process of curdling milk and cheese-making to India, which led to the development of Chhena and Paneer. These cheese products became deeply rooted in the traditions of Bengal, Odisha, and Punjab, and slowly grew in importance within the culinary traditions of these regions. However, the cheese-making methods used back then were quite basic. The Indian people had not yet been introduced to the complex aging processes and advanced techniques used in Western cheese-making. In Punjab, excess milk was used to make cheese to reduce wastage, while in Odisha, cheese was used in offerings to deities, and in Bengal, it paved the way for a new era of Bengali sweets, which the region later became well known for. Today, the cheese scene in India is very different from what it was even just two decades ago. At that time, very few people had any knowledge or understanding of cheese. Even in Punjab, Odisha, or Bengal, most people didn’t realize that their beloved Chhena or Paneer was actually a form of cheese. Awareness of cheese, especially among city dwellers, began to grow when the brand Amul introduced its signature cheese cubes, slices, and spreads, which were mainly sold in specialized markets. They effectively promoted their products, showcasing their uses and promising delicious flavors. Later, brands like Nestlé and Mother Dairy also joined the cheese market. Despite this, most people were still not familiar with the wide variety of cheeses available today, such as cheddar, gouda, mozzarella, ricotta, feta, camembert and the likes. Instead, the Indian middle and upper classes mainly focused on cheese slices, cubes, spreads, and similar products that were available.
Furthermore, chefs, culinary experts, and food scientists began to incorporate cheese into India’s culinary landscape. By the late 1990s and early 2000s, with the rise of globalization and increased exposure, Italian cuisine gained popularity in India, bringing with it iconic dishes like pizzas and pastas that prominently featured cheese. This marked the gradual introduction of cheese into Indian cooking. As international exposure grew and people travelled more, globetrotting citizens brought a variety of cheeses to the Indian market and when foreign products were introduced, they quickly became popular and were integrated into the lifestyles of modern India.
However, local cheeses, which have been part of India for centuries and have subtly woven themselves into the fabric of Indian culture, remained largely unknown. As is often the case, local options are mostly overlooked in the presence of exotic ones.
As a food enthusiast and trend observer, I feel compelled to introduce more people in my country to the unique and delightful array of cheeses we possess. I often wonder why I would choose Western cheeses over exploring the rich, indigenous varieties that have been cherished and have beautifully blended into our vibrant culture. Therefore, I would like to present some of the finest cheeses from various regions of India. Here are some of the indigenous cheese varieties from our own country that may definitely cheer you up if you are an ardent cheese lover :
1. Chhena: The quintessential Indian cottage cheese, regarded as the foundation of delightful Bengali sweets, is prevalent in Bengal and throughout India. This soft and creamy cheese is produced by curdling boiling milk with lime juice, vinegar, citric acid, or yoghurt in Indian households. The method is thought to have been introduced by Portuguese settlers in their Indian colonies and subsequently disseminated to others. The resulting soft Indian cottage cheese is extensively utilized in the preparation of desserts, snacks, savories, and curries, serving as both starters and main courses in Indian vegetarian cuisine.
2. Paneer: This is the firmer variant of Chhena, which is slightly harder yet not crumbly, and maintains a soft and rich interior. Paneer is extensively utilized in Punjabi and Pan Indian cuisines, serving as a primary source of protein in vegetarian diets across India. Typically, paneer is produced by curdling hot boiling milk with lemon juice, citric acid, vinegar, or yogurt, similar to the process for chhena, but it is subsequently pressed to remove excess water. The tradition of cheesemaking in the subcontinent can be traced back to the Indus Valley civilization, where milk coagulation was achieved using berries, plant barks, green leaves, or yogurt. The term “Paneer” is thought to have originated from the word “Peynir,” which translates to cheese in both Persian and Turkish languages.
3. Kaladi/Kalari or Maish Krej Cheese: A traditional cheese from the Pahadi and Kashmiri regions. Originating from the Dogra community of Jammu, Kalari cheese has a mild, milky, creamy flavour, and is often described as quite similar to mozzarella cheese. As it ages, its flavour profile develops to be tangier and pungent. Kalari was developed to preserve excess milk during the summer months, when the raised temperature would make it difficult to store fresh milk. Traditionally handmade, the milk is churned with a wooden spoon, after which sour whey—a byproduct of cheesemaking—is added to the warm milk to curdle it. The milk solids are separated from the whey liquid and hand-pressed into small discs. These discs are then sun-dried for several days to dry the outer layer, while the interior remains soft and moist.
4. Qudam Cheese: This is another indigenous variety of cheese which is very rarely available and lesser known, and is only confined among the Gujjar & Bakarwal nomadic community of Jammu & Kashmir. This is actually prepared from the leftover nutrient rich whey after making the kalari cheese. The curd is pressed, heavily salted and sun dried completely for preservation or storage. It has a strong salty & pungent flavour with a hard, rubbery yet crumbly texture.Due to its high salt content, it also has a long shelf life.
5. Chhurpi: A unique, traditional cheese, from the cattle rearers of the Eastern Himalayas in the Indian Himalayan state of Sikkim. Chhurpi is a protein dense cheese with a smoky flavour.The cheese is consumed as a favourite snack in the Eastern Himalayan states of Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh of India and other eastern Himalayan countries like Bhutan and parts of Nepal.The Chhurpi is hard & chewy in texture and turns even chewier, the more you chew on it. The most authentic Chhurpi is made from the milk of chauri, a hybrid animal which is a cross between a male yak and a female cow. The small cubes of the cheese can be chewed similar to a hard chewing gum that slowly softens with the mixing saliva over time. The hard texture of the cheese helps in its preservation in harsh climate of the Himalayas. There is also a traditional cheese of Ladakh region, which is also known as Ladakhi Chhurpe or Chhurpi, which is very similar to the usual eastern Himalayan Chhurpi, however prepared from the rich, thick cream skimmed off from yak or goat milk.
6. Bandel Cheese: This cheese originates from the historic town of Bandel, located in West Bengal on the right bank of the Hooghly River, approximately 54 kilometers north of Kolkata. Bandel was established as a Portuguese colony in the Bengal province of undivided India during the early 1500s. The cheese derives its name from this location, where it was first produced by the Portuguese settlers, and later, the local Bengali population adopted and adapted the cheese-making techniques. Over time, the Bengalis embraced various Portuguese culinary practices, including the enjoyment of this cheese. This distinctive cow’s milk cheese, named after the historically important Portuguese-founded town of Bandel, significantly influenced the local gourmet culture particularly among the Christian community in the town and surrounding areas. As a result, this product gained popularity and established its identity as one of the unique and fine cheeses native to our country. This artisanal cheese is found in thick, small circular disc like shapes resembling those of cookies and are available in two varieties, that is a plain(white) one & a smoked (brown) one with a deep aroma. The process of preparation and storage of this cheese requires significant salting and thus de-salting is essential prior to its use. It is typically soaked in water overnight or for 12 hours before consuming, to reduce its sharp, intense, brackish taste. It has a dry crumbly texture similar to the feta cheese, that does not melt easily when heated.
7. Topli Paneer: This paneer is a delicate, basket-shaped cheese native to the Parsi community in the Surat city of Gujarat. Topli Paneer or Topli nu Paneer or Topli na Paneer originated from the Parsi community of Surat and so, often called as Surti paneer. This cheese has a soft moist velvety texture similar to fresh mozzarella cheese and a mildly salty and slightly tangy flavour that can be simply eaten as it is.
8. Kalimpong Cheese: This artisanal cheese was developed in the hill station of Kalimpong, in West Bengal, introduced by the Swiss missionaries. For the first time, this particular cheese was made by Father Andre Butty in the late 19th century, who was a Swish Jesuit or an ordained Catholic priest, also a parish priest for Kalimpong and Sikkim. The unripened Kalimpong cheeses have a semi-smooth edible rind, which is mildly acidic in flavor and has a crumbly texture, which makes it a great choice in the salads or sandwiches along with eggs and tomatoes.
These narratives represent only a selection of the more well-known cheeses; however, there are likely numerous other varieties found in various interior regions of India. You may have encountered these cheeses, which could either be integral to local culture and traditions or be artisanal creations developed by chefs. I would appreciate it if my readers could share information about additional types of cheeses available in their regions or those they are familiar with, whether in comments, blogs, books, or other publications. Together, we can create a more comprehensive cheese story of India. Say “cheese” and spread smiles accross…….
Courtesies:
1. https://www.tasteatlas.com/topli-paneer
2. https://www.cheeseprofessor.com/blog/topli-nu-paneer-parsi-cheese-india
3. https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20211005-chhurpi-the-worlds-hardest-cheese
4. https://food.ndtv.com/food-drinks/6-unique-indian-cheese-varieties-youve-never-heard-of-with-recipes-health-benefits-10770585 (Qudam Cheese)
6. https://www.slurrp.com/web-stories/6-delicious-indian-cheese-varieties/
Cover Image sources (clockwise from top left):
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chhurpi
- https://curlytales.com/jammus-kalari-cheese-is-the-lesser-known-desi-cheese-everyone-is-talking-about/
- https://www.spiceupthecurry.com/chenna/
- https://www.instagram.com/p/CA7aQ6mJleX/?igsh=MXVla2NnMWQzd3FwOQ==
- https://slrtdc.in/blogs/hospitality-studies/different-between-paneer-cheese-khoya-butter/
- https://thebetterindia.com/food/india-indigenous-regional-cheese-trail-chhurpi-kalari-bandel-11887527
- https://homegrown.co.in/homegrown-explore/from-peynir-to-paneer-the-history-of-indias-beloved-cheese
Share this:
Discover more from FOODIESTREASURE
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.